How do I get my dog to trust me?
A mill dog has no reason to trust you. Your trust needs to be earned, little by little. Patience is a very important part. Your dog may not eat when people are around.
1) It is important that your mill dog be fed on a schedule, with you nearby. You don't have to stand and keep watch but should be in the same room. Your dog needs to know that meals come from you. For the majority of mill dogs, accepting a treat right out of your hand is a huge show of trust. Offer treats on a regular basis especially as a reward.
2) Sit and talk quietly while gently petting or massaging your dog. It is best to do this in an area where the dog, not necessarily you, is the most comfortable. They probably won't like it at first, but will get used to it. Some dogs sadly, never do though, and we’ll talk more about them later.
3) Never allow friends to force attention on a mill survivor. Ask them not to look your dog directly in the eyes. It is not uncommon for mill dogs simply never to accept outsiders. Let your dog set the pace.
4) No yelling at, rushing toward, raising hands, smacking, hitting, scruffing, spanking, rolling, muzzle grabbing. These will all be seen as personal assaults and worsen anxiety and possibly trigger defensive aggression. These dogs do not have a single clue about life in a home and gentle guidance is what will ultimately prevail ... set them up to succeed.
How do I housetrain my dog?
You have to UN-teach the dog something already learned to be acceptable. The dog was confined to a cage for his or her entire life and had to urinate and defecate in the cage, which makes house training trickier. A regular schedule, constant reinforcement, praise, and commitment on your part are a must! Would you ever scream at your children, march them to the bathroom and make them sit on the toilet AFTER you discovered they soiled their diapers? A dog is no different in this sense. Scolding after the deed is done is of no benefit to anyone.
Get your new dog on a regular feeding pattern (which will establish a regular potty pattern) and observe closely after feeding time. Get them on a premium, all-natural dog food such as Canidae, Nature’s Variety, or Innova. This will produce a stool which normally is firm (very easy to clean up). One or two bowel movements a day is normal. Low-cost foods have a lot of fillers and it is very hard to get a dog on a regular cycle using these products.
Before you even begin to house train, you must the dog’s schedule. Most dogs will need to "go" right after eating. As soon as they are finished eating, command "Outside". Always use the exact same word in the exact same tone. Watch them closely outside and observe their pattern as they prepare to defecate. Some will turn circles, some will scratch at the ground, some may find a corner, some may sniff every inch of the ground, some will get a strange look on their face ... every dog is different and you have to learn to recognize how the dog will behave right before he goes. This way you will recognize it when he gets ready to go in the house.
Clear an area in your home to which you will be able to confine your pup. People commonly use areas that have easy to clean surfaces such as the kitchen, bathroom, or laundry room. If you are not able to puppy-proof a single room, consider using baby gates or an x-pen to which you can restrict your dog. This limited area should contain his crate, a water dish, and a variety of toys (both interactive and chew toys).
Every dog is different. It may take a week, it may take a month, it may take a year ... and sadly, some dogs will never learn. Never give up and never accept "accidents" as a way of life. In most cases, the success of house-training depends on your commitment.
Constant routine and timing are both key factors to housebreaking because they provide predictability and reliability for both you and your dog. Keeping a log of your dog's feedings and outside bathroom breaks will also allow you to minimize accidents and reduce adaptation time.
Why does my dog urinate in different places in my home?
Your dog is marking. Puppy mill survivors all have one thing in common ... they were all used for breeding. A dog which marks its territory is "warning" other dogs that "this is my area ... stay away!" However, in a puppy mill situation, the dog's area is normally a 2x4 cage with other dogs in and around their "territory". It becomes a constant battle to establish territory and it is not uncommon to see both male and female survivors with marking problems.
The word "NO" will become your favorite word as you try to deal with the problem of dogs that mark. Don't be afraid to raise your voice and let the dog know that you are not happy. Always use the same word.
Dogs that are marking do not have to potty ... taking them outside will not help. You have to teach them that it is not acceptable to do this in the house. The only way to do this is to constantly show your disappointment and stimulate their need to "dominate" by taking them outside and even to areas where you know other dogs have been ... like the park or the nearest fire hydrant.
While you and your survivor learn about each other and your survivor develops a sense of respect for you, you will have to protect your home from the damage caused by marking. Here are a few tips that you will find helpful.
Urine spots should be soaked up with a paper towel, cleaned with whatever non-ammonia cleanser you use for that surface (vinegar is fine if you like it), and then a urine remover product (Anti Icky Poo, Nature's Miracle, etc.) which has been formulated with enzymes or better yet, bacteria that metabolize organic wastes, should be used.
White vinegar is your best friend. Keep a spray bottle handy at all times. Use the vinegar anytime you see your dog mark. The vinegar will neutralize the smell that your dog just left behind. Using other cleaning products may actually cause your dog to mark over the same area again.
Most cleaning products contain ammonia, the very scent found in urine. Your dog will feel the need to mark over normal cleaning products but normally has no interest in areas neutralized by vinegar.
"Potty Pads," your next best friend. These can be found in any pet store, but most "housebreaking pads" are treated with ammonia to encourage a puppy to go on the pad instead of the carpet. You might check at a home medical supply store. The blue and white pads used to protect beds usually work best.
Staple, tape or pin these pads to any area that your dog is prone to mark (walls, furniture, etc.). Do not replace the pads when your dog soils them ... simply spray them down with vinegar. These are not a solution to the problem, but will help protect your home while you deal with the problem.
ScotchgardTM is really nothing more than a paraffin-based protector. It puts a waxy substance down which repels water and spills (and in this case, urine). You can make your own product by filling a spray bottle about 1/2 full of hot water. Shave off slivers of paraffin wax into the bottle (about ¼ of a bar should be fine) and then microwave until you don't see the slivers anymore.
Shake and spray this onto the fabric areas you want to protect, such as the base of the sofa and the carpet below doorways or areas your dog is apt to mark. It may make the area stiff feeling at first but it will normally "blend" in with normal household temperatures and humidity. (Note: This is also great for high traffic areas of your home or along the carpet in front of the couch).
Belly Bands: The motivation to mark will be greatest when a dog is first brought into the house and generally dissipates over time. Use a belly band for the first two weeks on your male dog.
The goal in the first two weeks would not to be to extinguish marking behavior. The goal would be to establish a relationship of trust between the dog and owner. If the owner is shouting at the dog (which also often comes with a rush toward the poor, unknowing creature), the relationship could be doomed before it even starts.
After two weeks, once a solid foundation has been made (the dog is learning people aren't scary and don't cause pain, they are consistent and predictable), then try leaving the belly band off for short periods. If you see sniffing or leg lifting, calmly call the dog away with a gentle tug on the leash. As the dogs feels more comfortable with the owner, they can increase the volume of their voice for the reprimands or clap their hands.
Belly bands can be easily made at home out of things you probably already have. Depending on the size of your dog you can use the elastic end of your tube socks, the sleeve of a sweatshirt, etc. Simply fit the material to your dog and then place a female sanitary napkin under the penis.
Another easy way is to measure your dog, cut the fabric and sew on Velcro to hold it in place. Thereare also many sites on the Internet to order these if making them yourself is just not up your alley. Just remember to take the belly band off every time you bring your dog out to potty. Again, this is not a solution, but a protective measure.
How do I leash-train my dog?
Very few mill dogs know what a leash is. While being supervised, let them drag a leash around with them. Let them get used to the feel. This is very important. It is easy to fall into the mindset that they must be carried everywhere, but leash training is important. Plus cornering your dog to catch them when it's time to "go out" will terrify them. Then, in fear, the dog will sometimes growl or snap, which can rapidly devolve into a real crisis. It will make your life easier to have a leash-trained dog and it will also offer your dog confidence.
For the first few weeks, leave a lightweight leash attached to the dog when they take the dog out into the yard (even if it's fenced) and use it to maneuver the dog around the house as necessary, tethering the dog to furniture, etc. if needed to keep the dog near them. People tend to "rush" toward little dogs to scoop them up the minute they do something wrong. With a leash, the owners can calmly lead the dog away.
. We figure a man with a broom must of really worked him over. It was sooo sad and when we rescued the terrier from the pound he was only 6mths. We had him till he was 16 years and he was the best dog to my daughter and became super sweet and a blessing to our family. His name was Butch, we lovingly called him Butchie. 
